13 hours ago
Dec 12, 2024
Every time I go to a nursery, I’m charmed by the beautiful and vibrant orchids. It is an esteemed flower, both a gardener’s pride and challenge. Recently I had the opportunity to meet with Dr. Madhusudan, the Technical Manager of the Orchid and Succulents division at INDAM nursery. He willingly shared his knowledge on how to properly cultivate these plants. I've summarized the key insights from our conversation so that we can all grow orchids with more confidence.
Orchids have unique environmental requirements that differ from many of our other plants. They require high humidity levels and diffused sunlight to thrive. According to Dr. Madhusudan, the key to successfully growing orchids is understanding their natural habitat. Orchids are native to the tropics and subtropics, where they flourish in warm, humid environments. Cool-growing orchid species, such as Miltoniopsis, originate from high-altitude, cloud-covered forest environments. In contrast, intermediate-growing orchids, like Cattleya, are found naturally in subtropical climates, adapted to warmer but not overly hot temperatures. Warm-growing orchids, including Vanda, come from the steamy, moisture-rich rainforests at or near sea level. These orchids require consistently warm, humid conditions to flourish. What remains constant for all orchids is humidity, without which they will die.
If you wish to grow an Orchid garden, dedicate a space for them. Here are the things that you need to do. Cover the space with a green net to trap sunlight, add misty water sprayers, and provide good air circulation which will pump up the humidity. You can also use pebble trays or place the plants near a small water feature like a fountain. A relatively stable temperature range is essential for orchids to develop well whether they're cultivated indoors or in a greenhouse setting. Also, avoid positioning them in strong air drafts or air-conditioned rooms.
Many orchids find home when mounted on wooden planks or tree bark, which provides ideal aeration and drainage for their roots. When potting, use a well-draining medium like one formulated specifically for epiphytic orchids. Orchid placement is also crucial - orient them towards the east or north to provide the appropriate light levels.
Once you have a set up ready, select the right plant. Here are some points to look out for while buying orchids. Buy from authentic sellers who are a trusted supplier and source of guidance for home orchid growers. Check the tag or label for the orchid's species name, native habitat, and optimal growing conditions - this knowledge will guide your care strategy.
If you are a beginner, Dr Madhusudan recommends growing simple ones like Phalaenopsis or Dendrobium because they adapt quickly to subtle changes. Look for orchids with bright, non-drooping leaves and healthy roots free of rot. Avoid any plants showing signs of disease like spots or sogginess. The orchid should be in an active growth phase, with fresh leaves. If buying a blooming plant, choose one with a few unopened flower buds.
When you bring a new orchid home, it's best to keep it isolated for a few days before introducing it to your existing collection. This quarantine period can prevent the spread of any disease or pests. Orchids require regular fertilization with both macro and micronutrients to stay healthy. A well-scheduled feeding regimen is essential. Additionally, preventative treatment with pesticides and fungicides can ward off common issues.
Orchid blooms stay for nearly two to four months in a year. When the flowers are nearing their blooming phase, cut the spent blooms to redirect the plant's energy into producing new leaves rather than maintaining the old flowers. This helps delay leaf yellowing and drying.
Orchids prefer a fine mist of water. If growing in pots, you can dunk the entire plant, but ensure the water drains completely and doesn't stagnate. Avoid sharing this water between different orchids to prevent disease transmission. For orchids growing on barks and wooden planks, throw a mug of water aimed at the roots.
Orchids can be long-lived, perennial plants. As they mature, they'll develop more branches and flower spikes. You might become a successful Orchid
parent if you follow the right care and conditions. I picked up a Phalaenopsis after the interview and is now growing on the bark of a tree. Dr Madhusudan also spoke about cacti and succulents, which I will summarize in the next column.
Happy Gardening from the Orchid family. This was originally published in Deccan Herald in the June issue of Arts and Pursuits. I have included the name of Dr Madhusudan from INDAM nursery with whom I had this interesting converation.
This is the concluding part of the two part series. The first part on Orchids can be found here. with generous inputs from Dr Madhusudan, Indo-American Hybrid Nursery.
Succulents and cacti offer a diverse palette of textures and forms that challenge our expectations of greenery. I remember being astonished when my friend showed me a
tray of Lithops - succulents that look like pebbles. For a fleeting moment, I thought I was being shown well-crafted pastries until I was told they were plants. That sense of wonder struck again when I learned that the locally called Brahma Kamala, known for its beautiful fragrant flowers is actually a cactus, Epiphyllum oxypetalum. It has numerous long, flat, leaf-like structures called cladodes from which the flowers bloom. Unlike typical cacti, it doesn't have spines. The sensational fragrant flowers open late in the evening and close in the morning. (Note: The original Brahma Kamala, Saussurea obvallata, belongs to the Asteraceae and is the state flower of Uttarakhand.)
These fascinating plants like the Lithops and Epiphyllum oxypetalum, are just a small sample of the diverse world of succulents and cacti. Cacti, primarily native to the Americas, are a specific family of succulents with unique features like areoles—structures from which their characteristic spines and flowers grow. While all cacti are succulents, the broader category of succulents extends far beyond cacti, with representatives found worldwide.
Both groups have evolved remarkable strategies to thrive in arid environments where rain might not fall for years, with their plump leaves and stems holding onto every drop of moisture. The spines serve as protection against thirsty animals and birds. When the rains finally arrive, these plants spring into action, drinking deeply and erupting in a brief but spectacular display of life and color.
If you are a beginner, understanding the importance of soil composition is important when growing succulents and cacti in containers. Be cautious with watering, as overwatering is a common pitfall. These plants prosper in well-draining, aerated mediums that prevent water-logging. A good potting mix consists of nutrient-rich soil combined with gravel and perlite in a 2:1:1 ratio. This combination promotes drainage and aeration while helping retain nutrients without accumulating moisture.
Succulents and cacti typically have shallow roots, so they do well in wide, shallow containers rather than deep pots. Before adding these plants to your collection, research their specific needs regarding sunlight, water, and dormant seasons. When planting directly in soil, choose a location that suits their sunlight requirements and is away from high-traffic areas. Cacti spines can be numerous and painful if touched, and some species produce harmful milky sap. Some succulents or cacti that can’t tolerate full sun may perform well under a shrub or in partially shaded areas.
Indoors, cacti and succulents flourish in a light, airy environment with proper ventilation. Place succulents and cacti in areas with indirect sunlight and good air circulation. Good airflow helps maintain the dry conditions these plants prefer and prevents potential issues caused by excess moisture. Protect them from air conditioners and extreme heat sources. Closed windows, especially during hot afternoons, can trap humidity, which these desert-adapted species poorly tolerate. Regular application of insecticide keeps pests like mealybugs and aphids at bay.
Cacti and succulents have distinct phases of activity and dormancy. The active period is characterized by new leaves and a more vibrant appearance, while dormancy is indicated by a halt in development. During their active phase, they require regular watering, pruning, and feeding with NPK fertilizer that has high phosphorous content. In dormancy, keep them in a sunny, airy place, while avoid watering, pruning, or fertilizing.
Different species have varied active periods, with some flourishing in warm months and others in cooler times. For example, cacti such as _Echinopsis, Mammillaria,_ and _Rebutia,_ and succulents such as _Aloe, Sedum,_ and _Haworthia _flower and grow actively in the warmer months, then enter dormancy during winter. Conversely, some cacti, including _Schlumbergera (Christmas Cactus), Rhipsalidopsis (Easter Cactus), Ariocarpus,_ and succulents like _Kalanchoe, Aeonium,_ are dormant during the summer months and active in rainy and winter months.
The blooming of a cactus is a marvel to behold, as delicate beautiful flowers emerge from plants. It feels like there is a hidden gentleness within those harsh spines. To me, succulents and cacti are the ultimate optimists of the botanical world and serve as a powerful reminder of life's capacity to flourish even in the face of adversity. Until next time, Happy Gardening. This article originally appeared in Deccan Herald on 28th July 2024.
Some years ago I started growing vegetables in my garden. The first batch of vegetables we grew were beetroot, cherry tomatoes, brinjals, ring beans, ladies’ finger, turnip, potatoes, radish, and carrot. Among them, the first to produce fruits were beans, followed by ladies’ finger.
Before I continue, I want to give you a quick definition of vegetables and fruits. Commonly, any edible portion of a plant is a vegetable. However, botanically, all that grows from a flower and contain seeds is a fruit: this includes tomatoes and brinjals. This dichotomy has been exploited over the ages as in some countries vegetables are taxed but fruits are not!
Coming back to my story, our beetroots were harvested eight weeks later. They were of medium size. The beets were sweet, and leaves delicious when cooked. They tasted much better than the ones we buy at stores. The cherry tomato plants brimmed with ripe clusters for months. The joy of picking fresh tomatoes for a salad or coriander to garnish food was a dream-come-true moment.
Our first batch of brinjals was harvested without any hassles. The subsequent batches had worms and wilt. The brinjals reminds me of a story my father would narrate. Once upon a time there was a grandmother who was very sick. She was on her deathbed, and Yama came for her. Well, who would want to die? The grandmother told Yama that she had a simple wish to fulfill before she went with him. She had planted a brinjal sapling recently, and it was about to flower. Her last desire was to cook the fruit. She promised to him that when she harvests a healthy fruit, free of worms and infection, she’ll cook it and surrender to him. He thought it was a simple desire of a dying lady and granted it to her. Poor Yama had no idea that brinjals and worms go together! The grandmother had to reject every fruit because it had either had a worm or was infected and in this way prolonged her life on earth.
However not everything we harvested the first time was perfect. The radishes were crooked. The carrots were the length of a finger, and the potatoes were marble-sized. Humans have a fixed notion about sizes and shapes of vegetables. We avoid picking any vegetables that do not confirm to this notion. Sellers use this knowledge to their advantage and stock good looking (standardized) vegetables on their shelves. In turn, it falls on the shoulders of farmers to produce such standard produce. When we grow vegetables at home, we do not give much importance to this. We are happy with the “fruits” of our efforts.
We also grew greens— spinach, coriander, mint, sweet basil and fenugreek. We wondered if we could grow tugari bele (toor dal/pigeon pea) and we were happy it was perennial. Once you become familiar with the ways of growing and maintaining, the process of tending a vegetable garden becomes easy.
Let me share with you a simple method I follow for growing spinach. Take three uniformly sized pots and label them as week-1, week-2, and week-3. Layer the pots with soil. Divide the seeds into three equal parts. Start with sowing the seeds in the pot labelled week-1, and in subsequent two weeks sow in the other two pots. In the second week, the week-1 pot would have germinated. And by the third week, spinach in the week-1 pot would have sprung an inch tall. It takes forty-five days for spinach to mature. The leaves have to be harvested at the right time as the old ones taste bitter. You can start harvesting leaves from the first pot and move to the subsequent ones with a gap of ten to fifteen days. This method will yield spinach for a few months. This method can also be applied to grow other greens too.
Living in urban jungles we mostly run short of time and space. Gardening in this environment is fulfilling and I encourage you to grow a simple vegetable garden for the joy of it. Everything we venture into has a learning curve and will be peppered with mistakes. We will learn better only if we persist. Of course, as I always say, gardening advice is similar to diet advice. What works for one doesn’t work for another. You have to find ways that suit your needs and environment.
Until next month
Happy Gardening
Cheers from the Tomato Flowers This article originally appeared in Deccan Herlad on 28th March 2021.